Two metre waves toss the Katrina Alexandria around like it’s a toy. Blustery wind blasts salty air into my face as the 26-metre boat with dual outriggers crawls through the roller coaster of waves.
In the distance, I see a small island lined with white sand, lanky palms, and water so blue it appears to be glowing. It looks like an oasis from the angry ocean. I can’t wait to get there.
“We will have some big waves today,” says our guide, as we plunge into a sea of whitecaps. But the 23 travellers on board don’t seem to care.
We are thrilled to begin the three-day adventure through one of the most beautiful places on Earth – Palawan, Philippines.
The Journey to Palawan
In need of an escape from the Canadian winter, my partner Mirko and I came to the Philippines to explore the tropical islands of Bohol, Cebu, and Palawan.
The Philippines consists of more than 7,000 islands, each with diverse flora, fauna and marine life. The friendly locals make independent travel easy on many of the islands.
After spending a few days exploring the island of Bohol on a scooter, the plan was to fly from nearby Cebu City to Palawan’s capital city of Puerto Princesa. We would then take a five-hour bus ride to the laid-back town of El Nido. Here we would soak up the remote island’s magical landscapes.
Located on the southwestern edge of the archipelago, Palawan is known for its unique karst landscapes. There are also hidden lagoons, World War II wrecks, caves and magical coral reefs teeming with fish.
It’s a place I’ve dreamed about traveling to after seeing photos of the impressive karst landscapes over a decade ago.
Riding the Storm to Paradise
Photo courtesy of Big Dream Boatman Expeditions
The next four days were supposed to be spent exploring the hidden gems of Palawan on an island-hopping adventure from El Nido to Coron with Big Dream Boatman Expeditions.
However, the trip was shortened by one day due to strong winds that battered the El Nido region for days, threatening to cancel it altogether.
Now here we were, braving the big waves of our first open water crossing to get to our first snorkeling destination at Cobra Island. I have never experienced anything like this before.
“That island ahead looks like a postcard,” says Mirko, as he holds onto the railing of the boat that’s violently swaying back and forth.
Eventually, we get through the rough seas and arrive in a tropical paradise.
My brain switches into vacation mode the moment I step onto the island’s pillowy soft sand, where a few people are playing beach volleyball. Flip flops are no longer required.
The only thing I need to think about is if I put on enough sunscreen as I prepare to go for a dip in the clear water and search for sea turtles.
Unique Island-Hopping Expedition
According to our guide, there are hundreds of islands between El Nido and Coron. This is why island hopping is among the most popular activities in Palawan. But most trips are day tours that go to the same areas, which means they are often crowded with tourists.
A multi-day expedition allows travelers to go farther, escape the crowds, and explore places off the beaten path. It’s the reason Oli Canavan and Krish Reigno founded Big Dream Boatman Expeditions in 2016.
“There is no other place in the world where you can take such an expedition in which you sleep in different base camps along the way, see the incredible reefs and snorkel, and make friends whilst you do it, and it still feels remote,” said Canavan, noting the highlight for guests is often the friendly and attentive crew.
“We are very passionate about making sure people leave with the feeling that they’ve made a friend in the Philippines. Filipino people are by nature very friendly and funny.”
The Base Camp Experience
After lazing in lounge chairs while cruising to the next destination and snorkeling among colourful fish and coral that look like a work of art, we arrive at our base camp for the night on a large island.
A row of rustic bamboo cottages with thatched roofs lines the beach, dotted with palm trees swaying gently in the breeze.
There is no Wi-Fi, no hot showers, or any other luxuries of modern life. The only things inside the cottage are a fan and a mattress with a mosquito net hanging above it. Electricity is available for a few hours.
Later that evening, we gather on the beach to feast on delicious seafood prepared by our crew. We then sit around a bonfire before retreating to our cottages and falling asleep to the sound of waves.
This was our routine for the next two days, providing a chance to disconnect from the modern world and immerse ourselves in nature. It’s an adventure designed for a certain type of traveller.
A Beautiful Ending
I awake the next morning feeling a bit sad that the trip is already coming to an end, and soon I’ll have to wear shoes again.
But the sadness is short-lived as our boat slowly pulls into a beautiful lagoon at the entrance of Kayangan Lake near the island of Coron. Towering limestone cliffs surround the turquoise water that’s so clear I can easily see the coral from the boat.
The incredible landscape leaves everyone on board, including me, mesmerized by its beauty.
“Have you ever seen anything like this? It doesn’t even look real!” I say to Mirko with a huge smile glued to my face. This place is truly paradise.
If You Go
Photo by Mirko Freund
Several cities in the Philippines have direct flights to Palawan’s capital, Puerto Princesa. This is the main hub for other attractions on the island, such as the Puerto Princesa Underground River – a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
From Puerto Princesa, it’s about a five-hour bus trip to El Nido. There are also direct flights to El Nido or to Coron for those with limited time, but more airlines serve Coron.
One of the easiest ways to visit it is on the Puerto Princesa UNESCO Underground River Day Tour, a small group experience that includes boat access into the cave itself, scenic stops like the Buena Vista View Deck, and a local lunch, all with round-trip transfers from the city so you can focus on the experience rather than logistics.
Big Dream Boatman Expeditions is among a handful of companies that offer multi-day excursions from El Nido to Coron and vice versa. The expeditions are typically four days and three nights, while other companies offer longer trips in the region.
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Author Bio: A journalist since 2003, Pamela Roth spent several years covering court and crime for various newspapers in Western Canada. She now specializes in freelance travel writing, photography and videography, with stories appearing in several newspapers and magazines. These include Outpost Magazine, the Globe and Mail, Vancouver Sun, National Post, Our Canada, BC Outdoors, and Sidetracked Magazine. She is also passionate about fly fishing and outdoor adventures and is the author of the true-crime book Deadmonton. To read her travel features, visit pamelaroth81.blogspot.ca. To watch videos about recent adventures, visit youtube.com/@Pamelasroth
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